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 dyson motors 
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Joined: Sat Feb 27, 2010 12:50 am
Posts: 451
Location: Pennsylvania
Quote:
damunk wrote

I've decided to spend the extra money on better motors.
I think two/three good motors might be enough for me now.


If your budget will let you get 3 of the better vacuum motors would be the way to go :)


Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:11 pm
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Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:54 am
Posts: 427
Location: Riverina Australia
Malvin wrote:
If your budget will let you get 3 of the better vacuum motors would be the way to go :)


I think the same. But...............

damunk wrote:

Jim,

sorry I don't understand.

I want to make the pipe from the motors up to the test piece with a way to test the flow, velocity .
Just want it simple as poss and accurate for the money I spend.

I'm porting and polishing a 1.4 head for personal use but at the same time learning about the flowbench builds. I read on some forum posts that 1.4 heads flow from 140-160cfm whether that's right.

And reading more about pressure drops. I've decided to spend the extra money on better motors.
I think two/three good motors might be enough for me now.


You need to work out what style of bench and manometers you are going with. If you put an orifice or a flow element in the pipe, It is known as a PITOT flowbench. You can get numbers but the accuracy ( in this design ) is questionable and compensations are required. The other type of flowbench we talk about here is an ORIFICE bench, where the measuring orifice is inside a larger pair of chambers. The orifice bench is the better type in my opinion, but others will disagree.

If your going to use water manometers, you can choose your own deltap ( the rise of the inclined ) and factor this into the flow numbers of motors.

Buy some plans off Bruce, and read flowbench 101, This will help you understand flowbench operation.

Jim

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Sun Oct 18, 2015 7:13 pm
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Joined: Thu Mar 04, 2010 9:01 pm
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RACEPUMPER wrote:
You need to work out what style of bench and manometers you are going with. If you put an orifice or a flow element in the pipe, It is known as a PITOT flowbench.

Jim



Not entirely accurate, a Pitot flowbench utilizes a Pitot tube to measure the air speed inside a pipe. The most common use of Pitot tubes is to measure an aircraft's air speed, you can read more about them here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitot_tube


Sun Oct 18, 2015 8:10 pm
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Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:54 am
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Location: Riverina Australia
Thanks for clearing that up Ed, not my department by any means, just trying to get him sorted

Jim

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Sun Oct 18, 2015 9:37 pm
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2015 1:38 pm
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Ended up buying 119996-00 ametek: Three of them for £65.00 each from the UK. But will have to wait a month to get them as they are on order.


Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:21 pm
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Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:54 am
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Location: Riverina Australia
damunk wrote:
Ended up buying 119996-00 ametek. But will have to wait a month to get them as they are on order.


Good move Damunk, You won't look back with quality motors. You can use the waiting time to build your bench up to the point of motors and read, read, read.

Jim

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Mon Oct 26, 2015 5:33 pm
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2015 1:38 pm
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The ametek motors look good. I have a question about motors in general.

I can see where they suck in air, It's obvious as theres a fan there. But on the back size all I see is electrical coil wires. Where does it blow out from? There is nothing spinning on the other side or and only minute gaps for the air to come out of.


Sun Jan 17, 2016 5:07 pm
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Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:54 am
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Location: Riverina Australia
damunk wrote:

I can see where they suck in air, It's obvious as theres a fan there. But on the back size all I see is electrical coil wires. Where does it blow out from? There is nothing spinning on the other side or and only minute gaps for the air to come out of.


Yes out past the coil windings. Helps cooling

Jim

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Sun Jan 17, 2016 6:36 pm
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Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:00 am
Posts: 62
damunk wrote:
I am going for the below:

Attachment:
ametekmotor.jpg


Main reasons why:
1) It says it is genuine ametek. Something tells me it's not but have to trust what it says on the listing.
2) Low wattage: 1000w - If 4 motors then 4000w max which I can cope with (I am using it on a 1.4 litre head so I am assuming 150-200CFM is max required. Surely even with 4 bad motors it's sufficient flow.
4) 230v - UK use.
5) It's cheap as chips: £28.75 including postage) to UK.
5) Wet & Dry - Not sure what that means but with carburetor tuning - would this help?
6) It's double stage - Read on forums that doube stage CAN better than single stage.

I will buy just one and see what it is capable of. Or is it just worth going for the whole hog of 4. The project might take 6-8 months and worried about not having the same 4 motors later down the line.

The ones I have are similar looking to the photo. Just 9 times more expensive, and 1400 watts, 2 stage, forced motor cooling.. 4 of mine pull just over 300cfm at 28"... Think I'll go for something cheaper next time, if I am upgrading to 12 motors sometime.


Wed Jan 20, 2016 5:24 am
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Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2015 1:38 pm
Posts: 75
Ametek 119996-00 wiring help please?

Which is positive and negative wire? Black or white. The white is attached directly to the brass coil.
The black goes into a

Also these motors came from USA I believe. Are all ametek 119996-00 motors 240V?


Sun Apr 02, 2017 5:00 pm
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